I’m sure that we’ve touched on the subject of “matching numbers” in the past. But what exactly does “matching numbers” mean? I really couldn’t tell you, because it means different things to different people, and different things on different cars. When you consider all of the permutations that are possible, it is virtually impossible to come up with a universally accurate definition of “matching numbers.” This wouldn’t be a problem were it not for the fact that many classic car buyers, sellers, and owners bandy this term around as if there were some magic number on every component of every classic car that enables us to tell if the carburetor is original to the engine, which is original to the transmission, which is original to the rear end, which is original to the chassis, which is original to the body. And while we’re at it, let’s be certain that the cigarette lighter and ash tray are also correct. Unfortunately, this magic number does not exist. If you’re considering buying a classic car that is being represented as “matching numbers,” you better do your homework and find out just what it means for that particular car. And if you are a seller who is representing a car as “matching numbers,” best to make sure that it really is. With the price being paid for many collector cars today, the old excuse of “ The guy I bought the car from told me it was” is not holding up so well in court these days. Perhaps an example of a popular collector car will illustrate how complicated this issue can become. Let’s look at a 1967 427/435 Corvette. If the car were entirely original, the engine number and transmission number would match the last six digits of the cars VIN (vehicle identification number). If the car was represented as being “matching numbers,” would a potential buyer be entitled to expect that all of these numbers match? Some would say yes, and others might say that.
Hello! Before I begin I just want to credit /u/johnnyfortune for their write-up here. Their instructions were mostly correct for me, but I had to add a few extra steps that I believe others will need to include as well. This may only apply to those that have never used i Message on their machine in the past. As for the instructions: Open Clover Configurator and mount your EFI Open your config.plist In the Rt Variables section, make sure everything is clear. Go to the SMBIOS section and click on the magic wand. Match the specs options as best you can to your machine. On the two sections that say shake, click a few times to generate a random serial. Click ok. Go to and search for that serial number that was generated. If you get an error message, that is good. It means you aren't using a serial number assigned to a real Mac. If you don't get an error, repeat step 4 and search for the new serial instead. Open terminal and run uuidgen. Copy this UUID and paste it in the Sm UUID field in the SMBIOS section. In the Board Serial Number field, paste in your system serial number (the one generated by the magic wand) and add 5 random letters and numbers to the end to reach a total of 17 characters. The reason for step 7 and 8 is to keep your ROM (last 12 digits of the UUID that was generated) and MLB ( Board Serial Number) values constant and unique on each boot of the OS. If the values change from boot to boot, i Message will notice and fail to activate and there is potential that Apple will notice and blacklist your UUID, serial, or Apple ID. All Clover-generated ROM and MLB values are automatically blacklisted, as well. Export config.plist In terminal, run the commands: defaults write com.apple.finder Apple Show All Files TRUE killall Finder Navigate to / Users/[ Username]/ Library/ Chaches and delete all files or folders beginning with: (if there is nothing.
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